Mike, over at the Food Chain, notes the growing backlash against vodka — a trend that, I predict, will in a year or so loop around so that shots of clear rail swill become the new hot thing.

I quote from the same Sam’s newsletter Sula does:

Put this odorless, flavorless spirit in a beautiful frosted glass
bottle, have it made in France, advertise the heck out of it and
charge an incredible price and, before you know it, you have created a
sensation. The genius is that each Vodka is made EXACTLY like all
other Vodkas: at a huge industrial distillery and is made for EXACTLY
the same cost as the “cheap stuff.” The marketers are only slick
enough to dress it up and create mystique around their new
“Ultra-premium” Vodka. The creators of this type of Vodka (and so many
more have followed their lead: “Hey let’s hire a young, hip
entertainment mogul to hype our Vodka and charge $30 for it!”). 

His post reminded me of these two posts from last summer, attempts to unpack the marketing strategy of Death’s Door, and — presumably — other small artisanal producers. Their product may or may not be distinctive on the palate (in the case of DD I do think the vodka has a smooth, round, almost starchy mouthfeel you don’t get with something like Stoli) — but  what they’re really selling is the story.

It’s still marketing, but in this instance it’s marketing that tells a story about the producers — who are not Archer Daniels Midland — rather than a story about what kind of person the drinker is, or can become if he drinks enough Grey Goose.

I’d argue that this is marginally more honest.