{"id":902,"date":"2009-09-10T12:08:54","date_gmt":"2009-09-10T16:08:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/?p=902"},"modified":"2009-09-10T12:08:54","modified_gmt":"2009-09-10T16:08:54","slug":"forgotten-fruits-chicago-chefs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/forgotten-fruits-chicago-chefs\/","title":{"rendered":"Forgotten fruits, Chicago chefs"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-903\" title=\"img_0954\" src=\"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/09\/img_0954-400x300.jpg\" alt=\"img_0954\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/09\/img_0954-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/09\/img_0954-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When I went to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/?p=419\">Forgotten Fruits workshop<\/a> up in Madison earlier this \u00a0year, one thing seemed sort of off. All the trees looked like this one.<\/p>\n<p>March = not exactly peak apple season.<\/p>\n<p>Next week, tho, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.slowfoodusa.org\/index.php\/programs\/details\/raft\/\">RAFT<\/a> brings its apple program to Chicago just as the Pippins are starting to fall from the trees. I&#8217;m looking forward to Thursday&#8217;s workshop at the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chicago-botanic.org\/\">Botanic Garden<\/a>, which is led by RAFT majordomo <a href=\"http:\/\/www.garynabhan.com\/\">Gary Nabhan<\/a> in conjunction with gregarious <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Cider-Hard-Sweet-History-Traditions\/dp\/0881504688\">cider expert Ben Watson<\/a>. It looks like it \u00a0will revisit much of the information from the spring, with perhaps more of a focus on increasing accessibility to and availability of heirloom apple varieties in urban markets.<\/p>\n<p>I was both inspired and utterly overwhelmed by the wealth of information presented in Madison, in particular the collective knowledge of the apple old-timers, who came from orchards across the country to put their heads together and figure out how to keep the American Summer Pearmain, the Pomme Royal Dyer, the Transcendent Crab, and a host of other gloriously named fruits alive. Sadly these men &#8212; many of them lifelong apple growers, and many of them in their 70s and 80s &#8212; will not be at the Chicago workshop. But, on the plus side perhaps this time my head will not explode.<\/p>\n<p>Two public events bookend the workshop: On Wednesday at 2 PM Nabhan and Wisconsin orchard-keeper and apple historian Dan Bussey host a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.slowfoodchicago.org\/index.php\/2009\/09\/07\/forgotten-fruits-of-the-great-lakes-region\/\">field trip<\/a> to historic <a href=\"http:\/\/www.dupageforest.com\/Education\/Centers\/Kline_Creek_Farm(2).html\">Kline Creek Farm<\/a>. And on Thursday at 6 PM Nabhan and Watson get down to business with an <a href=\"http:\/\/www.slowfoodchicago.org\/index.php\/2009\/09\/09\/forgotten-fruits-of-the-great-lakes-heritage-apple-cider-tasting\/\">heritage apple and cider tasting<\/a> at Southport Grocery; \u00a0proceeds benefit the excellent <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chicagorarities.org\/index.html\">Chicago Rarities Orchard Project<\/a> (or &#8220;CROP&#8221;), a fledgling orchard project spearheaded by a handful of Chicago&#8217;s own fruit freaks. (One of them is also a <a href=\"http:\/\/soupnbread.wordpress.com\/2009\/03\/06\/ham-hock-and-habanero-soup-with-cornmeal-plantain-dumplings\/\">soup freak<\/a>.) For more info on all this see the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.slowfoodchicago.org\/\">Slow Food Chicago<\/a> site.<\/p>\n<p>All the apple action is happening in conjunction with next week&#8217;s <a href=\"http:\/\/chefscollaborative.org\/summit\/\">Chef&#8217;s Collaborative National Summit<\/a>, which is convening in Chicago on Tuesday at Kendall Collge to rally the culinary troops around the theme &#8220;Bringing Sustainability to the Table.&#8221; Now, locally grown produce, snout-to-tail eating, and on-site compost may all seem like no-brainers in Chicago, where you can&#8217;t throw a fork without hitting a plate of rooftop-grown microgreens, but get outside the Mado-North Pond-Publican axis and there are still a whole lot of Sysco cans on the shelf out there. (Though I shouldn&#8217;t dis Sysco. The committment with which this industry giant &#8212; for so long the easy fall guy for all that&#8217;s wrong with the food service business &#8212; has <a href=\"http:\/\/www.syscosf.com\/about\/Sysco.GreenerGiant_SaveurArticle.pdf\">thrown its considerable weight behind the cause<\/a> is both fascinating and heartening.) Restaurants notoriously operate on razor-thin margins, and the current economic climate is making things particularly rough and bulk buying particularly seductive. So, IMHO, any effort to bring together professionals\u00a0to try and hash out a way to run a sustainable business and <em>stay<\/em> in business is vital, now more than ever.<\/p>\n<p>With speakers ranging from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rickbayless.com\/\">Rick Bayless<\/a> to <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leopold.iastate.edu\/about\/moreaboutfred\/fred_bio.htm\">Fred Kirschenmann<\/a>, president of Dan Barber&#8217;s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.stonebarnscenter.org\/\">Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture<\/a> and a longtime force behind the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leopold.iastate.edu\/\">Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture<\/a> at Iowa State (ground zero for much critical research underpinning those long lines at the Green City Market &#8212; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leopold.iastate.edu\/pubs\/staff\/files\/middle_0604.pdf\">this white paper<\/a> on the disappearing &#8220;agriculture of the middle&#8221; is particularly good, if nerdy, reading) the summit looks to be a rich day and a half. There&#8217;s even a panel on local beer, wine, and spirits, a subject ever-<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chicagoreader.com\/chicago\/hops-dreams\/Content?oid=1103818\">near<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chicagoreader.com\/chicago\/an-artisanal-empire\/Content?oid=1001787\">dear<\/a> to my heart.<\/p>\n<p>It should be a busy week.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When I went to the Forgotten Fruits workshop up in Madison earlier this \u00a0year, one thing seemed sort of off. All the trees looked like this one. March = not exactly peak apple season. Next week, tho, RAFT brings its apple program to Chicago just as the Pippins are starting to fall from the trees. &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/forgotten-fruits-chicago-chefs\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[106,194,198,197,119,193,196,101,195,100],"class_list":["post-902","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-ben-watson","tag-chefs-collaborative-summit","tag-chicago-rarities-orchard-project","tag-crop","tag-dan-bussey","tag-forgotten-fruits","tag-fred-kirschenmann","tag-gary-paul-nabhan","tag-leopold-center-for-sustainable-agriculture","tag-raft"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/902","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=902"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/902\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":917,"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/902\/revisions\/917"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=902"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=902"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.marthabayne.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=902"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}