Moonshine and Lamb Candy
By martha
The moon last night was so stupid big and bright that as it was rising I squinted at this weird glow through the trees and panicked, thinking the field across the way was on fire. Seriously.
It’s sweater weather up here already, at least after dark. But it’s also a new kind of gorgeous. At night the moon hits the Milky Way and the sky glows dusty violet.
As predicted a large chunk of summer people have left en masse, headed back to Chicago to gear up for the start of the school year. According to Leah there’ll be another little spike over Labor Day, but people are already talking like the summer is over and they can’t wait to watch the leaves start changing.
In the meantime, I’m finally feeling in the swing of things–after, what, two months? On Sunday I played gofer for another class at the hotel, this one on fresh pasta and led by Peter Robertson, of RP’s Pasta in Madison. The class covered four-cheese ravioli, whole wheat fettucine made from island wheat (and dressed in a rich, pork-infused ragu), and what I wound up calling “lamb candy”–spiced ground lamp tucked into oblong pieces of spinach pasta and twisted up into little, spherical packages, like pieces of saltwater taffy.
Here’s the recipe, or what I can remember of it at least. (Robertson=not so much a believer in measuring things.)
2 lbs ground lamb
olive oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
1/3 cup tomato paste
1 lemon
white wine
rosemary
cinnamon
cardamom
salt
fresh pasta dough*
2 diced fresh tomatoes
Saute onion in oil till transparent. Add lamb and brown, then mix in tomato paste, lemon juice, and spices to taste. When meat starts to caramelize add a splash of white wine and simmer over low heat until liquid is gone.
Roll out fresh pasta dough and cut into rectangles about 2” x 3” square. Spoon a teaspoonful of ground lamb onto center of dough, then roll horizontally, twisting and pinching the ends to seal the ravoli. Cook in gently boiling water until al dente (about three minutes). While pasta cooks, lightly toss tomatoes and a bit of salt in sauté pan, now empty of lamb, over low heat, until warm. Drain pasta and dress with tomatoes. Plate and serve.
*If you don’t have pasta-making capabilities I can’t help you, cause neither do I (not being able to afford the $147 attachment for the KitchenAid mixer). But I bet this ground lamb concoction would make a nice dish just tossed with some small farfalle or orrechiette. Maybe make it a bit juicier by adding more tomato paste at the get go? Also, I wonder what would happen if you crumbled a little ricotta salata on top?

Yum!! You wouldn’t happen to remember the basics of the pork-infused ragu, would you?
Just some chopped tomatoes (canned – oh the shock!), onion, garlic … some other herbs (?), maybe some wine (?) and a whole mess of pork ribs thrown in to simmer until the meat just shreds off the bone. Fish out the bones and serve.